A road holds many things. Between roads are villages, and within them, people live. Food, culture, and history also move along the road. Each path carries its own story. Walking a trail is more than just a way to stay healthy; it is a rewarding way to discover something new. That may be why interest in the Korea Dulle Trail has grown. Stretching 4,500 kilometers in total, the Korea Dulle Trail is a major trekking route that connects Korea through the east coast (Haeparang Trail), west coast (Seohaerang-gil), south coast (Namparang Trail), and the DMZ border area (Peace Nuri-gil). There are many ways to enjoy it. The first is to complete the entire route. Lee Won-geun, CEO of Seungwoo Travel Agency, which specializes in trekking tours, said, "It takes about four to five months to complete the Korea Dulle Trail if you walk every weekend without missing a single one." As of the end of May, only 251 people had finished the full route. It would be nice to see it through in one go once you start, but why not create your own Korea Dulle Trail course by finding the path you like most? There is no need to begin with something difficult. Most people will enjoy the Korea Dulle Trail with their families. It is a place anyone can enjoy comfortably, regardless of age or gender, and it offers memorable stories. Gangjin County and Haenam County are good starting points for the Korea Dulle Trail.
▶ Gangjin County, Jeong Yak-yong encountered on the road: Namparang Trail Course 83
To fully experience the charm of the Korea Dulle Trail, we head south. Gangjin County was chosen as the starting point for this long journey because it feels familiar and easy to remember. It is a place that holds Jeong Yak-yong's story, and a place where travelers can also savor the local flavors along the way.
Gangjin County's section of the Korea Dulle Trail belongs to the Namparang Trail. The first route we took was Course 83, the so-called Jeong Yak-yong themed trail. Of course, that is not its official name. But once you hear the stories behind the path, it makes perfect sense.
Gangjin County is a place imbued with the spirit of Jeong Yak-yong, one of the leading intellectuals of the Joseon Dynasty. His pen name, Dasan, is also linked to Gangjin County. Mandeoksan Mountain on Namparang Trail Course 83 has long been known for its wild tea. Jeong Yak-yong loved tea, and Gangjin County had a mountain rich in tea, making the name "Dasan" feel even more fitting. In particular, Dasan Chodang is also located in Gangjin County.
The place on Namparang Trail Course 83 where visitors can face Dasan Jeong Yak-yong most directly is Dasan Chodang. Jeong Yak-yong spent 11 years of his 18-year exile there and wrote many works, including Admonitions on Governing the People. The plaque at Dasan Chodang is said to have been written in person by Kim Jeong-hui, known by the pen name Chusa, when he stopped in Gangjin County on his way to exile in Jeju. The path to Dasan Chodang begins at the Dasan Chodang parking lot. After passing through a small village road, which is a gentle flat course, the forest trail begins. The slope is not steep, but it should not be underestimated. By the time you start to breathe heavily, Dasan Chodang comes into view. At first glance, the small wooden building looks modest, but sitting on the porch and taking in the scenery brings a sense of peace. There is also a small pond beside the building.
If you walk along the mountain path from Dasan Chodang, you will reach Gangjin Baengnyeonsa Temple. During his exile, Jeong Yak-yong is said to have exchanged ideas with Hyejang, the temple's abbot at the time. For a man cast out to a remote place, Hyejang may have been both a lifelong friend and a spiritual companion. The many footprints left by Jeong Yak-yong on the road to Gangjin Baengnyeonsa Temple reflect both his anguish and his joy at meeting a friend.
It takes a little over 30 minutes to walk from Dasan Chodang to Gangjin Baengnyeonsa Temple via the mountain path. However, if you are traveling with children or older family members, it is better to take a vehicle down to the temple. You can go by car or take a Kakao taxi.
Gangjin Baengnyeonsa Temple is one of Gangjin County's major tourist attractions, even if you are not following the Namparang Trail trekking route. There are many ways to enjoy the temple, but I recommend taking the small path just past the midpoint from the entrance toward the green tea fields. This is a tea field cultivated by monks, and the reason this place was long called Dasan becomes clear before your eyes.
▶ Haenam County, where Namparang and Seohaerang meet: "A road open to everyone"
If you are planning to travel the Korea Dulle Trail with your family, Haenam County can be a good choice. First, it is home to Ttangkkeut Village, where Seohaerang-gil Course 1 and Namparang Trail Course 90 meet. Above all, people of all ages can enjoy the Korea Dulle Trail at a relaxed pace, and there is also a bell beside Ttangkkeut Tower that rings loudly. For some, it serves as a good signal marking both a beginning and an end.
The path to Ttangkkeut Tower in Haenam County is built as a deck trail along the coast. With almost no slope, it is one of the few sections of the Korea Dulle Trail where wheelchair users can move comfortably while enjoying magnificent ocean views. Skywalks are installed throughout the deck trail, allowing visitors to feel even closer to the sea.
If you want to enjoy this place at its best, I recommend coming at sunset. The open sea and the sun sinking into it create a beautiful glow. As darkness begins to fall, another world unfolds. The lights installed along the deck add to the atmosphere.
It is also worth exploring the stories hidden along Haenam County's trails. If Gangjin County has Jeong Yak-yong, Haenam County has Admiral Yi Sun-sin.
Uldolmok in Haenam County is where Admiral Yi Sun-sin led the Battle of Myeongnyang to victory. Looking quietly at the sea of Uldolmok, it feels as if the scene from that battle comes alive before your eyes. The current there can reach up to 6.5 meters per second, making it one of the fastest tidal currents in the world.
Around Uldolmok, visitors can see a recreated Panokseon warship that once sailed the battlefield. At Woosooyoung Tourist Attractions, they can view weapons used at the time, including the turtle ship, and enjoy a variety of hands-on experiences.
What makes Haenam County such an appealing starting point for the Korea Dulle Trail is its comfortable lodging infrastructure. The Korea Tourism Organization operates Haenam126 Oceano Hotel, where guests can enjoy scenic rooms at reasonable prices. All rooms offer ocean views, and the building's East Asian-style structure makes the scenery feel even more beautiful from inside than from outside. Barrier-free rooms designed with the concept of an open tourist site in mind are also available, making accessibility excellent. Low-profile beds, wardrobes, and bathrooms all reflect thoughtful attention to detail. One drawback is that there are not many attractions nearby. But if your goal is to enjoy the Korea Dulle Trail, that can actually help you focus more on the surrounding scenery as you walk.
If you want to experience the Korea Dulle Trail in Haenam County in a different way, try Haenam Dream Car. Haenam Dream Car is a service for public transportation users. After arriving at Naju Station by KTX, you can rent a camper van for about 100,000 won, with options for two to five people. Reservations can be made on the Haenam Dream Car website, and the lodging site is Oceano Campground, which is free.
Kim Gwang-sik, head of the Regional Development Planning Team at the Korea Tourism Organization, said, "Haenam has meaning as the southern end of the country, and it also serves as a turning point on the Korea Dulle Trail, where the end of Namparang Trail and the starting point of Seohaerang-gil meet." He added, "By linking this with Haenam126 Hotel, which captures the natural scenery of the Korea Dulle Trail, we will help more visitors discover the appeal of local tourism."
Kim Se-hyung, reporter fax123@sportschosun.com
